Bitches are pregnant for 63 days from the time of ovulation. Depending on whether the bitch was mated before or after ovulation the length of pregnancy from the time of mating varies from 58 to 68 days. Please record dates when your bitch’s season starts and changes and when she mates. This will help determine when your bitch is due.

 

During the first 3 weeks of pregnancy you may start to notice subtle changes in your bitch including teat development, increased weight, and changes of  behaviour. They can become protective and at times may be off their food.

 

At this time you should exercise and feed your pet as normal. Avoid over heating and care must be taken with some medications for example, live vaccines. The diet should be a well balanced diet. No supplements are needed and should not be added.

 

Regular worming is important in the pregnant bitch. For those on monthly Interceptor or Sentinel, no more need be done.

 

From 6 to 9 weeks of pregnancy your bitch should be fed a good quality puppy food. We recommend Hills Science Growth Diet. Gradually increase the amount of food over the last 3 weeks of pregnancy. By the time she is due to have pups she should be eating approximately one and a half times her normal diet. Once again regular gentle exercise is important and it is essential that your pet does not become obese at this time as it will make the whelping more difficult. It is important that no supplements be given at this stage especially Calcium.

 

This should be in a quiet, semi-dark place in a room that can be kept at 30 degrees Celsius. A heat lamp can be suspended 1.2 meters above the box. The box can be partly enclosed and should have a rail at the bottom of 3 sides to allow the pups to roll away from the mother if trapped.

 

Place several thickness of newspaper on the bottom. These can be removed in layers as they become soiled.

24 hours before your bitch is due to whelp her rectal temperature will drop by about one degree to around 37 to 37.5 degree Celsius. Checking the rectal temperature twice daily from day 55 will therefore give you an accurate indicator of imminent whelping.

 

Stage I of labour will last 6 to 12 hours. There are no obvious contractions. Your bitch will seem anxious and may pace. She will often nest and seek seclusion. She may vomit. There is no need for any help at this stage.

 

Stage II of labour is the actual birth stage of labor and will see your bitch lying on her side and contracting her abdominal muscles to push out the pup. It is best not to disturb the mother at this stage as she is able to stop the contractions if she is not happy. It is therefore best to let her settle at home rather than have her at the vet clinic.

 

The first pup will on average take 3 to 6 hours to be delivered. You should call the vet after 4 to 5 hours of contractions if the first pup has not appeared.

 

A bulge of  membranes which contain the pup may be seen in the vulva. This is O.K for up to 40 minutes.

 

When the pup is visible do not attempt to pull the pup for at least 20 minutes after it is first present. Be careful not to pull off limbs or damage the spine. If you are not confident in helping your bitch then phone the vet 20 minutes after the pup is visible if the bitch is not having any success in pushing it out.

 

40% of pups will be born breech (tail first). This does not cause problems.

 

The next puppies will be born on average every 30 to 60 minutes. Call the vet if your bitch is pushing and she does not have another pup for 2 hours. The mother may have a rest between pups so if she is settled and not pushing there is no need for help. She may rest for up to four hours between pups and this is OK as long as she is not pushing.

 

When the pup is delivered it may or may not be in its sack. The mother will usually chew off the sack, clean the pup, chew through the umbilical cord and eat the placenta. Do not help or interfere with the mother if she is doing this for herself.

 

If a pup is born in a sack it should be left for 1 minute ( by the clock) before you attempt to help. Then pick the pup up with towels, break the sack away from the head and wipe the fluid away from mouth and nose. Carefully support the pup while vigorously rubbing its chest. When it is breathing give it back to the mother to clean up.

 

If the mother does not sever the umbilical cord within 10 minutes it should be tied off with  cotton 3 cm from the body and then cut off leaving about 5 cm of umbilical cord attached to the pup.

 

Leave the pups with the mother. She may not be able to nurse them till the whelping is complete but they need her warmth and contact.

 

The placentas are usually delivered after each pup but may take up to 2 hours. If possible try to count the placentas to make sure there is one for each pup. The mother can eat the placentas if she likes, otherwise remove them.

 

Care of the mother after birth

 

The mother should be checked by a vet within 24 to 36 hours after having the last pup.

 

Green to red/brown fluid will be passed by the bitch for up to four to five weeks.  If it smells foul or if your pet seems unwell then seek advise from the vet. If there is spotting of blood continuing for longer than 6 weeks after the birth then she should be checked.

 

The bitch should be fed a high quality puppy diet ad lib after the birth. We recommend Hills Science Growth Diet. Water must be freely available. Add no supplements.

 

If your bitch is unwell ie poor appetite, foul smelling discharge, trembling, lethargic she should be examined as soon as possible.

     

The most important thing is to keep the pups warm. Their environment should be 30 degrees Celsius.

 

Pups must receive colostrum ( the milk from the mother during the first 24 hours after birth). You should make sure each pup is able to suckle during this period.

 

The mother will clean up all excretions from the pup so just change the paper regularly.

Pups should be wormed for round and hook worm from 2 weeks of age. For example canex puppy suspension.

 

Commence weaning pups at 2 to 3 weeks of age. Simply moisten a good quality puppy dry food with boiling water and allow to cool to body temperature. Place this in the whelping box for the mother and pups to eat together. Discard any remaining food after 30 minutes. Feed four times daily.

 

The pups will gradually reduce suckling. A source of water should be provided but be careful not to have a container that they could drown in. Alternately a milk substitute eg Divetalact  powder can be made up with boiled water. This should be made up fresh say 4 times a day. It should be discarded after 30 minutes or so to avoid bacterial contamination.

 

Pups should be vaccinated at 6 weeks of age and ideally should go to their new homes at 8 weeks of age.

 

We do not recommend either of these procedures and no longer provide these services at Allambie Veterinary Clinic.

 

 

Breeding from your bitch and raising her puppies can be an extremely rewarding experience or it may produce frustration and failure. Pet bitches are often torn between their instinctive desire to be with their puppies and the routines they have acquired with their owners.    This can lead to problems and  should be borne in mind before breeding is contemplated.    Also raising a litter of puppies is an extremely time-consuming exercise and one which should not be embarked upon without due consideration.  The following information is provided in order to increase your chances of success.

 

 

The bitch comes into heat about every 6 months, although very large breeds of dogs may cycle anything up to once in 15 months.  In most giant breeds (Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, St Bernards etc.) a yearly heat is normal.  Normally most dogs are on heat for about 3 weeks.

 

 

The most notable sign of heat is vaginal bleeding.  This begins about the end of the first week and lasts for about 9-14 days.  Another consistent sign is swelling of the vulva.  During this period male dogs will be attracted to her. 

 

 

Male dogs are more successful when the environment is familiar.  Therefore, it is preferable to take the female to the male's home for breeding.  The timing for mating is critical.  The most fertile time is considered the 10th through the 14th days of the heat period.  However, some dogs will be fertile as early as the 3rd day and as late as the 18th day. 

 

 

There are two tests that are used for this purpose:

 

The first is a microscopic examination of vaginal cells to detect changes in cell appearance and numbers.  This has been used for many years and is reasonably reliable.  A more recent test determines changes in the progesterone level in the blood.  This test is very sensitive and can often be carried out in-house by the veterinary practice.  It gives a very good indication of when mating is most likely to be successful.  It is used for dogs that have a history of unsuccessful mating or for very valuable bitches.

 

 

Pregnancy, also called the gestation period,  normally ranges from 60 to 67 days, the  average being 63 days.  Most dogs deliver (whelp) between days 63 and 65.  The only way to accurately determine the stage of pregnancy is to count days from the time of mating.  With all planned matings the date should be recorded and the bitch then examined approximately  3 weeks from the date of mating to detect the signs of  pregnancy. Ultrasound scans can be carried out at around the 28th day and radiographs from around day 38.

 

 

It is important that a bitch is in good condition before she is mated, neither too fat nor too thin.  Her food intake should not be altered during the first two thirds of her pregnancy, and if a complete formula is being fed there is no need to use additional vitamin or mineral supplements.  After the 6th week food intake should be gradually increased and high energy, low bulk foods may be useful in ensuring the bitch is adequately nourished.  As abdominal pressure increases with the size of the foetuses, smaller meals fed more frequently may be helpful.    During the last three weeks food intake will often increase by up to one and a half times the normal level and at the height of lactation, approximately three weeks after whelping, food intake is often two and a half to three times normal, particularly if she is feeding a large litter.

 

 

From the time of mating, many dogs show behavioral changes.  Most develop an unusually sweet and loving disposition and demand more affection and attention.  However, some may become uncharacteristically irritable.    Some experience a few days of vomiting ("morning sickness"), followed by the development of a ravenous appetite which persists throughout the pregnancy.

 

During the last week or so of pregnancy, the bitch often starts to look for a secure place for delivery.  Pet bitches often become confused, wanting to be with their owners and at the same time wanting to prepare for the forthcoming event. It is therefore a good idea to get the bitch used to the place where you want her to  have her puppies well in advance of whelping but even then some bitches insist on having their pups in close proximity to the owner.  Under these circumstances it is better to let the bitch have her way and then when she has finished, gently try moving her to the place that she should have already been introduced to some days or weeks previously.  However some bitches are very determined and under these circumstances less trauma is caused if, within reason, her demands are met or at least some compromise is achieved, e.g. the  bitch that wants to nurse the puppies on your bed is quietly moved to a whelping box in a corner of the bedroom.  Ideally you may prefer her to use the whelping box you had prepared for her in a quiet corner of the kitchen.    Similarly some bitches need  the owner present during the whole time of delivery and if they are left alone they are likely to endeavour to delay delivery of the puppies which can create subsequent problems - compromise is the name of the game! 

 

Prior to the time of delivery, a whelping box should be selected and placed in a secluded place, such as a closet or a dark corner.  The box should be large enough for the dog to move around freely, but have low enough sides so that she can see out and  you can reach inside to give assistance, if needed.  The bottom of the box should be lined with several layers of newspapers.  These provide disposable, absorbent bedding which the bitch can tear up and reorganise according to her own requirements.    At the same time they will absorb the fluids which are always more copious than you would ever expect at the time of whelping.  If sufficient thickness of newspaper is laid at the outset, the upper, soiled layers may be removed with minimal interruption to the mother and her newborn puppies.

 

 

Most dogs experience delivery without complications however, first-time mothers should be attended by their owners until at least one or two puppies are born.  If these are born quickly and without assistance, further attendance may not be necessary.  However, with a bitch having puppies for the first time a careful watch should be kept upon her until she has finished, just in case any complications develop.  If the owner elects to leave, care should be taken so that the dog does not try to follow and leave the whelping box.

 

 

These generally include nervousness and panting.  The bitch will often stop eating during the last 24 hours before labour although with some breeds this does not apply.  All the textbooks tell you that rectal temperature will drop below 100°F (37.8°C) but this again may only occur an hour or two before she starts producing.

 

Delivery times will vary.  Dogs having slim heads, such as Shelties, Collies, and Dobermans, may complete delivery in one to two hours.  Dogs having large, round heads generally require longer delivery times.  English Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, and Pekingese puppies tend to have sizeable heads that make delivery more difficult.  It is not unusual for these breeds to rest an hour or more between each puppy.  Rarely, a dog may deliver one or two puppies, then have labour stop for as long as twenty-four hours before the remainder of the litter is born.  However, if the bitch does not start to strain in two hours and you think there are further puppies veterinary advice should be sought without delay.

 

 

Puppies are usually born head first with the head and forelegs extended.  This is called anterior presentation. Posterior presentation is also normal in the bitch.    The puppy is born with tail and hindlegs coming first.  Breech presentation in which the hindlegs are forward and the tail and rump is presented is abnormal.  However it  does occur and can result in a normal birth although breech presentations frequently present problems.  If a puppy's rump is presented and the bitch is straining continuously without making any progress, veterinary attention should be sought without delay.    Each puppy is enclosed in a sac that is part of the placenta ("afterbirth").  These usually pass after the puppies are born.  However, any that do not pass usually  disintegrate and are passed within 24-48 hours after delivery.  If the bitch develops a blood stained, pussy or smelly discharge consult your veterinary surgeon.    Note that it is normal for the mother to eat the placentas.

 

If the delivery proceeds normally, a few contractions will discharge the puppy it should exit the birth canal within ten minutes of being visible.  Following delivery, the mother should lick the newborn's face.  She will then proceed to wash it and toss it about.  Her tongue is used to tear the sac and expose the mouth and nose.  This vigorous washing stimulates circulation, causing the puppy to cry and begin breathing it also dries the newborn's haircoat.  The mother will sever the umbilical cord by chewing it about  to 1 inch (1.9 to 2.5 cm) from the body.   Next, she will eat the placenta.

 

If the puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is partially visible from the vagina, the owner should assist delivery.  A piece of dampened gauze or thin face cloth can be used to break the bubble and grasp the head or feet.  When a contraction occurs, firm traction should be applied in a downward (i.e. toward her rear feet) direction.  If reasonable traction is applied without being able to remove the puppy, or if the mother cries intensely during this process, the puppy is  wedged.  Veterinary help may be needed.

 

It is normal for the mother to remove the placental sac and clean the puppies however, first-time mothers may be bewildered by the experience and hesitate to do so.  If the sac is not removed within a few minutes after delivery, the puppy will suffocate, so you should be prepared to intervene.  The puppy's face should be wiped with a damp face cloth or gauze to remove the sac and allow breathing.  Vigorous rubbing with a warm. soft towel will stimulate circulation and dry the hair.    If the puppy does not start to take a breath, gentle blowing down the throat after gently opening the mouth with the fingers also helps to assist respiration.  The umbilical cord should be tied using  sewing thread or dental floss and cut with clean scissors.  The cord should be tied snugly and cut about half an inch (1.3 cm) from the body so it is unlikely to be pulled off as the puppy moves around the whelping box.

 

Newborn puppies may aspirate fluid into the lungs, as evidenced by a raspy noise during respiration.  This fluid can be removed by the following procedure.  First, the puppy should be held in the palm of your hand. The puppy's face should be cradled between the first two fingers.  The head should be held firmly with this hand, and the body should be held firmly with the other.  Next, a downward swing motion with the hands should make the puppy gasp.  Gravity will help the fluid and mucus to flow out of the lungs.  This process may be tried several times until the lungs sound clear.  The tongue is a reliable indicator of successful respiration.  If the puppy is getting adequate oxygen, it will appear pink to red.  A bluish coloured tongue indicates insufficient oxygen to the lungs, signalling that the swinging procedure should be repeated.

 

It is helpful to have a smaller, clean, dry box lined with a warm towel for the newborn puppies. After the puppy is stable and the cord has been tied, it should be placed in the incubator box while the mother is completing delivery.  Warmth is essential so a heating pad or hot water bottle should  be placed in the box, or a heat lamp may be placed nearby.  If a heating pad is used, it should be placed on the low setting and covered with a towel to prevent overheating.  A hot water bottle should be covered with a towel.  Remember, the newborn puppies may be unable to move away from the heat source.  Likewise, caution should also be exercised when using a heat lamp.

 

Once delivery is completed, the soiled newspapers should be removed from the whelping box.  The box should be lined with soft acrylic type bedding, prior to the puppies' return.  The mother should accept the puppies readily and settle down to feed them.

 

The mother and her litter should be examined by a veterinary surgeon within 24 hours after the delivery is completed.  This visit is to check the mother for complete delivery, and to check the new-born puppies.  The mother may receive an injection to contract the uterus and stimulate milk production. sometimes antibiotics  may be prescribed if it is thought there is any infection present.

 

The mother may have a bloody vaginal discharge for 3-7 days following delivery.  If it continues for longer than one week, she should be examined by a veterinary surgeon for possible problems.

 

 

Although most dogs deliver without need for assistance, problems do arise which require the attention of a veterinarian.  Professional assistance should be sought if any of the following occur:

 

1.          Twenty minutes of intense labour occurs without a puppy being delivered.

 

2.          Ten minutes of intense labour occurs when a puppy or a fluid-filled bubble is visible in the birth canal.

 

3.          The mother experiences sudden depression or marked lethargy.

 

4.          The mother's body temperature exceeds 39.4°C (via a rectal thermometer).

 

5.          Fresh blood discharges from the vagina for more than 10 minutes.

 

6.          If a green discharge is seen without any puppies having been born.

 

Difficulty delivering (dystocia) may be managed with or without surgery.  The condition of the mother, size of the litter, and size of the puppies are factors used in making that decision.

 

 

Occasionally, a mother will deliver a litter several days premature.  The puppies may be small, thin, and have little or no hair.  It is possible for them to survive, but they require an enormous amount of care, since they are subject to chilling and are frequently very weak and unable to swallow.  Some may be able to nurse but are so weak that they must be held next to the teat.  Puppies that do not nurse can be fed with a small syringe, bottle, or via stomach tube.  The equipment and instructions for these procedures are available from your veterinary surgeon.  Premature puppies must be kept warm.  The mother can provide sufficient radiant heat from her body if she will stay close to them.  If she refuses, heat can be provided with a heat lamp, heating pad, or hot water bottle.  Excessive heat can be just as harmful as chilling, so any form of artificial heat must be controlled.  The temperature in the box should be maintained at around 30°C but the box should be large enough so the puppies can move away from the heat if it becomes uncomfortable. In addition the warmth provided by the mother is moist warmth:  she is licking and cleaning the puppies and they are suckling therefore if artificial heat is supplied it is essential to ensure there is sufficient moisture present and a damped towel or wet cotton wool in the whelping box will provide this essential moisture.

 

 

 

It is not uncommon for one or two puppies in a litter to be stillborn.  Sometimes, a stillborn puppy will disrupt labour, resulting in dystocia.  At other times, the dead puppy will be born normally.  Although there is always a cause for this occurrence, it is often not easily determined without a  full post mortem examination of the puppy including bacteriological examination and submission of tissues to a pathologist.    Your veterinary surgeon may in certain circumstances recommend this procedure and it is worthwhile discussing the cost beforehand since sometimes it can be considerable.  However it may prevent future problems.     

 

 

The mother will spend most of her time with the puppies during the next few days.  The puppies need to be kept warm and to nurse frequently they should be checked every few hours to make certain that they are warm and well fed.  The mother should be checked to make certain that she is producing adequate milk.

 

If the mother does not stay in the box, the puppies' temperatures must be monitored.  If the puppies are cold, supplementary heating should be provided.  During the first four days of life, the environment for the puppies should be maintained at around 30°C.  The temperature may gradually be decreased to 27°C by the seventh to tenth day and to about 22°C by the end of the fourth week.  If the litter is large, the temperature need not be as high.  As puppies huddle together, their body heat provides additional warmth. Their behaviour will give a guide to whether they are comfortable.  If they are warm and content they will be quiet and gaining weight.

 

If the mother feels the puppies are in danger or if there is too much light she may become anxious.  Placing a sheet or cloth over most of the top of the box to obscure much of the light may resolve the problem.  An enclosed box is also a solution.  Some dogs, especially first-time mothers, are more anxious than others.  Such dogs may attempt to hide their young, even from the owner.  If the bitch continues to move her puppies from place to place, some attempt at confinement may be worthwhile.    However if she is still unsettled, veterinary advice should be sought since the puppies will certainly be endangered if they are placed in a cold or draughty location.  If the bitch becomes too distressed she could kill her puppies as a means of "protecting" them from danger.

 

 

Puppies should feed and sleep 90% of the time during the first two weeks.    Any "mewing" type noises may indicate lack of nourishment or an infection, i.e. they are not thriving.  If in doubt consult your veterinary surgeon. 

 

Another good indication of thriving is weight increase.    Any available postal scales will usually suffice for this purpose. Puppies may be identified with fibre tipped pen on the abdomen and careful weight records kept.

 

When the milk supply is inadequate, supplemental feeding one to three times per day is recommended and should be performed on any litter with more than 5 or 6  puppies.  There are several very good commercial formulae available.  The directions on the container should be carefully followed before feeding particularly with regard to  temperature.  One method of testing the temperature of the feed is to drop some of the warm formula on to your forearm.  It should be about the same temperature.    The commercial products have directions concerning feeding amounts.  If the puppies are still nursing from their mother, the amounts recommended will be excessive.  Generally, 1/3 to 1/2 of the listed amount should be the daily goal.  Supplemental feeding may be continued until the puppies are old enough to eat puppy food.

 

If the mother does not produce milk or her milk becomes infected, the puppies will also cry.  If this occurs, the entire litter could die within 24 to 48 hours.  Total replacement feeding, using the mentioned products, or finding a foster mother is usually necessary. The owner of the stud dog, if a breeder, your local veterinary surgeon, or other breeders may be able to help with this.    If replacement feeding is  chosen, the amounts of listed on the product container should be fed.  Puppies less than 2 weeks of age should be fed every 3-4 hours.  Puppies 2-4 weeks of age do well with feedings every 6-8 hours.  Weaning in these circumstances,  should begin as early as possible and certainly no later than about  3 weeks of age.

 

 

For the first month of life, puppies require very little care from the owner because their mother will feed and care for them.  They are born with their eyes closed, but they will open in 7 to 14 days.  If swelling or bulging is noted under the eyelids, they should be opened gently.  Cotton wool dampened with warm water may be used to assist opening the lids.  If the swelling is due to infection, pus will exit the open eyelids and should be treated as prescribed by a veterinary surgeon. If the eyes have not opened at 14 -16 days of age, or if there is any pus or discharge, consult your  veterinary surgeon at once.

 

Puppies should be observed for their rate of growth.  They should double their birth weight in about one week.  Use postal scales as described above.  The accuracy of the scales is not important, since it is weight increases that you are looking for.

 

At two weeks of age, puppies should be alert and trying to stand.  At three weeks, they generally try to climb out of their box.  At four weeks, all of the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play.

 

Puppies should begin eating solid food about three and a half to four and a half weeks of age.  As soon as their eyes are open, one of the bitch milk replacers  should be placed in a flat saucer.  The puppies' noses  can be dipped into this or their noses and mouths wetted with a finger dipped into the formula.  Repeat this  2 or 3 times per day until they begin to lap this usually takes 1-3 days.  Next, raw scraped meat can also be smeared around their mouths or alternatively canned puppy food can be placed in the milk until it is soggy.  As the puppies lap the milk, they will also ingest the food.  The amount of milk should be decreased daily until they are eating the canned food with little or no moisture added this should occur by 4 to 6 weeks of age.  As soon as they are able to eat it is worthwhile weaning them on to one of the complete puppy foods of which there are many today, both dry and canned as well as semi-moist.    Most puppies, particularly those of the toy and smaller breeds prefer the canned varieties.  Once the puppy is happy with a complete formula there is no need to add any vitamin or mineral supplements.

 

 

Eclampsia, or milk fever, is due to a depletion of calcium in the blood of the mother due to heavy milk production.  It generally occurs when the puppies are 3-5 weeks old (just before weaning) and most often to mothers with large litters or with an abundance of milk as some bitches naturally have.  Good mothers, especially attentive of their puppies, always seem to suffer more severely. 

 

The mother has muscle spasms resulting in rigid legs, spastic movements, and heavy panting.  This can be fatal in 30-60 minutes, so a veterinary surgeon should be consulted immediately.  This is a major emergency situation.

 

 

Diet is extremely important for a growing puppy.  There are many commercial foods specially formulated for puppies.  These foods meet their unique nutritional requirements and should be fed until 12-18 months of age.  Puppy foods are available in dry and canned formulations.  Dry foods are less expensive in the long run and can be left in the bowl for the puppy to eat at will.  Canned foods offer a change and are just as nutritious.

 

We recommend that you buy food formulated for puppies.  Adult formulations are not recommended since they do not provide the nutrition required for a puppy.  Advertisements tend to promote taste rather than nutrition, so be careful that their influence on purchasing habits is not detrimental to your dog.    Table food is not recommended although often more appealing than dog food, balanced nutrition is not easily achieved.

 

We recommend that you buy food of a reputable brand.

 

 

Puppies are provided some immunity to canine diseases from their mother before and shortly after birth. This is particularly true if the dam's vaccinations are up to date.    Some of the mother's antibodies cross the placenta and enter the puppies' circulation, but most antibodies are provided in the mother's milk, particularly the first milk or colostrum.  These "maternal antibodies" protect the puppies against the diseases to which the mother is immune.  This explains why it is so important to ensure that any booster inoculations are administered prior to mating. 

 

Although very protective, maternal antibodies last for only a few weeks after this time, the puppy becomes susceptible to disease.  The duration of the maternal antibodies is quite variable depending on several factors.  In general, vaccinations for the puppy should be started at about 6 weeks of age.  Puppies should be vaccinated against distemper, hepatitis, kennel cough and parvovirus  Other vaccines are also available for certain situations, and will be discussed at the time of the first visit for vaccinations.

 

Maternal antibodies are passed in the mother's milk only during the first 1-3 days after delivery.  If, for any reason, the puppies do not nurse during this important period of time, their vaccinations should begin about 2 to 4 weeks earlier depending on likely disease exposure although some maternal antibodies are transferred throughout the whole of the suckling period via the milk.  Your veterinary surgeon can make specific recommendations for each particular situation.

 

 

Intestinal parasites ("worms") are common in puppies. Sometimes no signs are apparent but often poor condition,  chronic soft or bloody faeces, loss of appetite, a pot-bellied appearance, loss of lustre of the haircoat, and weight loss are seen.  Some parasites are transmitted from the mother to her offspring and others are carried by fleas.  Some are transmitted through the faeces of an infected dog.  Very seldom are  these parasites visible in the faeces. Their detection depends on demonstration of  their eggs under  a microscope.  Generally puppies are wormed from about 2 weeks of age and medication is usually supplied by  your veterinary surgeon at the time of the post natal examination. It is well worth consulting the veterinary surgeon regarding a deworming programme for a litter of puppies rather than purchasing branded products over the counter although these are often effective, although sometimes for types of worms that may not be present in your particular litter.

Litter Bred Because Bitch Was In Season and Someone In The Neighbourhood Had A Male They Thought Should Be Bred

THIS INFO CAME TOO LATE!

 

 

 

So you think you want to breed a litter of puppies.  There are some important questions to ask before you take that first big step.  The first, and perhaps most important, question is “Why?”.    The answers will be as varied as the people who own dogs.  Do you want to have a puppy “just like” your dog?    Do you want to breed your dog because people have told you how they would love to have one of the puppies?  Did you pay a substantial amount of money for your dog and believe that you can recoup some of that money?  Do you want to make some money?  Do you want your children to experience the wonders of birth and nature?  Do you believe that breeding your dog will make a significant contribution to the breed?  These are some of the reasons given for breeding. 

 

“I want to breed so that I can have another dog just like this one!”  Chances are you will not get a puppy “just like” yours.  Remember that your dog is only one-half of the genetic make-up of the puppies.  Your dog is the result of genes from both his/her dam and sire and the possibility that the puppies will turn out just like yours is remote unless you have carefully researched the parentage lines behind your dog and the proposed stud and understand the probabilities of what type of offspring should be produced from them.

 

“Everyone tells me how much they like my dog and would love to have a puppy from her/him!”  Most people will change their minds when actually confronted with that furry bundle of energy and the promises to buy one will evaporate.  Try taking deposits before you breed and see what type of response you have.    As a first-time breeder, you will not have established a reputation and will not have referrals or references for your puppies.  That little four-legged bundle of fur is not “just like” your dog.  The puppy will not be housebroken, obedient, come when called, and, most likely, will keep the new owners up at night for the first week or so.  Your friend then returns the puppy, saying they just don’t have time for a dog and you now have a four-month old puppy that is chewing everything in sight, not quite as cuddly as it was, and needing all its vaccinations that you have to try to re-home.

 

“You can always sell purebred puppies and make some money.”  You’ve paid £250 for your dog and got him at quite a bargain because lots of those breeders with established kennel names were asking £400 for their puppies, so you just know that you’ll be able to breed your dog and sell the puppies for £300 each and make a substantial amount of money.  So, with money racing around in your head, you set out to breed your dog.  Let’s not even consider the substantial medical testing that one should do prior to breeding to make sure that no genetic tragedies are passed along, we’ll just consider the bare minimum of expenditures.  First, there is the stud fee.  If yourdog is worth £250 and you’re going to make all this money selling puppies, it’s fair to say that the owner of the stud dog will probably consider him to be worth at least £250 or more for his services.  Now, we’ve paid out the stud fee and it’s getting close to the time that the puppies are due.  Your expectant female has been eating a lot more lately (normally about 30% more from about the fourth week of pregnancy and about three times the normal amount after the puppies are born until they are about four weeks old).    There’s the blankets and towels that the puppies lay on all the food that they eat after they are weaned and before they are sold advertising to sell the puppies and that is not taking into consideration any problems that might arise requiring veterinarian attention during the whelping or for any problems with the mother or sickly puppies after the puppies are born.  All these things are expenditures before even the first puppy is sold.  For a very realistic look at the various costs of raising puppies, you should take a good look at the charts.

 

“I want my children to see the miracle of birth.”  This can be a very expensive and traumatic lesson for the children.  Remember that birth can also be very tragic.  Your children may be seeing the joy of new life at 4 o’clock in the morning while their precious pet is on the surgery table cut open and haemorrhaging.  Or they may be listening to her scream as she tries to give birth to a puppy that is too large and is turning to snap at the puppy and you in her pain.  Then there are the still-born puppies, mummified puppies (something went awry in development and instead of the puppy being aborted naturally, it shrivelled up and dried, being born black and ready to rot these puppies can be the result of poor prenatal nutrition and quite often the bitch will then have uterine infections after giving birth), “water puppies” (these are puppies that seemingly have no skeletal development and seem to be gel-filled these may be linked to a viral infection that the bitch had during pregnancy – remember that medical care before birth is another expense) puppies with birth defects that either die soon after birth or must be humanely destroyed.  Or the birth may have gone great and the mother suddenly develops eclampsia (a calcium deficiency linked to the demands of lactation and can be severely predisposed by prior calcium supplementation), running a high fever with muscle spasms, unable to stand and eventually having seizures.  While planning for the children to witness the miracle of birth, be sure to take them to the local shelter on euthanasia day so that they can witness the reality of death for the scores of dogs who have no homes.

 

“I believe that the puppies resulting from the breeding will be an asset to the development of the breed.”  This is, in my opinion, the only reason that any one should consider breeding a litter and even then there are serious questions to consider.  You should have spent at least two to three years of serious interest in the breed, including belonging to various breed and working clubs, completed in shows (in conformation, obedience and/or agility) or performance events to demonstrate your dog’s worthiness to be bred, have a substantial knowledge of the history of your breed and its standard, have looked at as many different lines and specimens of your breed as possible (you will learn as much looking at poor specimens as you do with outstanding specimens, provided there is a balance between the two), and talked extensively with the old-timers of the breed about their experiences and where they see the breed going (even if you don’t necessarily agree on all issues, these people still have a wealth of information).  Your dog should closely match the breed standard and free of any temperament problems or serious health or genetic defects.  Look at your dog with critical eyes, seeing all the faults as well as all the good aspects a critical eye is mandatory if you seriously want to breed better dogs.  And, after taking all this into consideration, you need to ask yourself if you can ensure that the puppies produced go to the types of homes that you would want to live in.

 

 

Breeding a litter of puppies is a major responsibility.  You should consider whether you have the time, energy, financial and physical resources, space, facilities, and knowledge to undertake this responsibility.    If you bring a litter of puppies into the world, it is your responsibility to properly care for them before and after they are born, as well as finding responsible, loving homes for them. 

 

Breeding, done properly, requires a lot of your valuable time.  There are late night and wee morning feedings, ensuring that the temperature of the room remains constant, trips to the veterinarian and to the stud dog, endless cleaning of the whelping and puppy pen, laundry, phone calls from prospective owners and the just-curious. 

 

If you’ve ever watched the movie “The Money Pit” where a couple purchased an old home to renovate and then found they were paying endless expenses trying to renovate it, you will then understand the comparison to your cash outflow when you breed a litter.  Here is a partial list of considerations:  medical testing for genetic defects, prenatal veterinarian care, worming of your bitch, postnatal veterinarian check-up, inoculations and worming for the puppies, purchase of whelping box and whelping supplies (towels, scissors, hemostats, disinfectant, iodine, thermometer, etc.), heating lamp, cleaning supplies (paper towels, detergent, disinfectant, etc.), stud fee, puppy food and vitamins, advertising, lost salaries and sleep, not to mention any unplanned expenses such as birthing complications or sickly puppies or dam.  (See charts for realistic expenditures.)

 

You need to decide where you are going to raise the puppies.  Newly born puppies need a draft-free, temperature constant environment to thrive, just like other newborns.  While it should be in a quieter part of the house, I don’t believe that puppies should be raised in isolation and strict quiet.  Puppies, like babies, become well-adjusted adults when they are part of the mainstream of the household.  For that reason, I make sure that the puppies could hear everyday noises, such as vacuuming, television and radio, kitchen noises, people talking, etc.  I also try to provide the puppies with visual stimulation once the eyes are opened.  You will need, however, to consider that six or eight growing puppies need a bit of room and can be noisy.  Because they are not housebroken and the mother will quit cleaning up after them long before they go to new homes, you need a space that can be easily cleaned and disinfected to provide a sanitary and odour-inoffensive environment.  If outside temperatures permit, the space ideally will be located close to where you can take the puppies out for a bit during the day once they have started exploring their inside environment.  If you are going to raise the puppies in a kennel-situation, you need to insure that the kennel is well-insulated and draft-free with electricity for light (puppies should not be left in lightless places) and a heating lamp.  You’ll need a space for yourself and whoever is going to help you so that you can sit by the mother and puppies during the first week of their life and spend time socializing them after that. 

 

You need to consider whether your work schedule and lifestyle will permit you to breed a litter of puppies.  Can you afford to stay home for a week or so after the puppies are born?  Can you arrange your schedule quickly if your bitch goes into labour early?  Do you have pressing family events planned that may conflict with that time?  If so, are you prepared to stay home with your new responsibilities?  What about your daughter’s recital or your favorite niece’s wedding?  Is your family prepared to let you make these sacrifices?    Who is going to help you when the puppies are born?  Who is going to guide you through a difficult birth, teach you about tying off an umbilical cord and making sure that the placentas are completely expelled?  Do you know how to supplement a sickly puppy who is not thriving?   

 

Breeding means sacrificing a ‘normal’ life in many cases.  These are things that the average person never considers when thinking about breeders.  These are choices that breeders make when they decide to breed.  The welfare and future of the dogs are completely in their hands.

 

Another consideration is whether you have the space, energy and time to keep puppies that are not sold right away.  Puppy purchasers need to be carefully screened.    Will you be able to turn down those people who don’t seem responsible even when the puppy is twelve or fourteen weeks old and are becoming needle-toothed, destructive, barking imps that seem to eat, sleep, potty and potty again?  Are you prepared to take back a puppy after it has lost its cute-potential and the owners find out that a puppy, like a child, requires work and training to be a well-adjusted member of the family?  You may also be unlucky enough to have a puppy owner call you after a year and tell you that the puppy has severe hip dysplasia or cataracts and wants you to take the dog back and refund the money.  Or the dog may have started biting his or the neighbour’s children and you’re suddenly faced with a lawsuit for producing an aggressively-temperament dog (even though the person may have a new partner and children who are absolutely horrid to the dog and the biting is environmentally produced, lawsuits mean money to defend as well as time and energy).

 

Your dog is very important to you, are you sure that you want to risk her health or life for a litter of puppies?  Complications do sometimes occur during pregnancy, birth and post-natal, and these complications can result in unfortunate consequences.

 

 

You’ve done your homework and found a compatible male to complement your bitch’s pedigree and physical characteristics both dogs have passed the appropriate health testing for the breed.  She’s in season and it’s time to take her to the veterinarian for a prenatal checkup and to make sure that her vaccinations, medications and worming are up to date.  Once you’ve bred her, she should be under veterinarian care for any illnesses and should be kept away from any dogs that might pass viruses to her.    Infestations, illnesses or diseases can affect the unborn puppies.  Bitches can have miscarriages.  If fetal death occurs early in the pregnancy, it is usually undetected and absorbed by the mother’s body.  Abortion may result if fetal death occurs later in the pregnancy, and, dependent upon the cause of fetal death, the bitch may carry the remaining fetuses to term.  A number of things can cause fetal death, including fetal congenital defects, the physical health of the mother, her uterus and placenta, malnutrition, anything that alters the health of the mother.  This can include reproductive tract diseases and illnesses, such as cystic endometrial hyperplasia, adhesions (possibly from previous pregnancies or caesarian-sections), tumours or hormonal imbalances.  Diseases known to cause fetal death include Canine Distemper Virus infection, Canine Herpes Virus infection, Toxoplasmosis, Campylobacter infection and Brucellosis (a type of Canine sexually transmitted disease). 

 

You will still need to exercise your bitch.  As the pregnancy progresses, your walks may get a bit slower.  She will require about 30% more supplementary food during the last three to four weeks of her pregnancy.  Now is a good time to put her on puppy food specially formulated for the needs of puppies and pregnant or lactating bitches.  She may become a bit moody and depressed or she may have no changes at all, other than an increased appetite and thickening around the middle. 

 

As the whelping date nears, she may become restless.  The whelping area should be ready so that she can become accustomed to it.  You may want to schedule a few days off before the whelping date so that someone is home with her at all times.  Some bitches do whelp early and premature puppies are the result.  Bitches should never whelp by themselves since trouble can occur and no one wants to come home to find dead puppies and/or a dead bitch.

 

Once whelping begins, be prepared for any problems that may occur.  Dystocia is the term associated with difficulty in whelping.  While uterine fatigue (inertia), due to length of labour or to lack of physical fitness prior to whelping, is probably the most common cause of dystocia, other factors may also present problems, such as puppies too large for the pelvis or vaginal canine, malpresentation (breech puppies), prolapsed uterus, prolapsed vagina, uterine torsion, or ruptured uterine.    You and your veterinarian will need to determine the cause of dystocia.  Proper treatment may be either administering drugs (oxytocin) to increase uterine contractions, manual assistance in delivery, or surgery (a caesarian-section). 

 

Once those puppies are all born, there are still dangers to both the puppies and to the bitch.  Eclampsia is not an extremely common disease, but it is life-threatening.  While it is caused by low calcium levels in the blood caused by the demands of lactating, there is evidence that giving the bitch calcium during pregnancy may, in fact, predispose her to this condition.  Small dogs are particularly prone to this disease.  Signs to watch for during the first three weeks of nursing includes behaviour changes such as restlessness, nervousness or lack of interest in the puppies.  Left untreated, the next stage can be excessive salivation, a stiff or wobbly gait, or irritability.  Continued lack of treatment may result in fever, inability to stand, muscle spasms, and seizures over the next few minutes to several hours.  Death may occur due to hypothermia or respiratory depression.  Dogs suffering from eclampsia should be transported immediately to the veterinarian where, if consulted in time, the intravenous administration of calcium can result in rapid improvement.  Recurrence can be prevented after such an episode by continuing to give oral calcium throughout the remainder of the lactation period.  Calcium should be given upon a veterinarian’s advice only.

 

Much easier to recognize, mastitis is the infection and/or inflammation of the mammary gland and may include all or just one or several glands.  The affected glands become firm and hard, often resembling rocks, are very red, warm to the touch and painful.  Milk may possibly be off-colour.  Veterinarians are divided in their opinions as to whether nursing from these infected glands may harm the puppies.  Treatment includes antibiotics, massage and manual expression of the gland, warm compresses and may also include surgical drainage and flushing. 

 

Puppies need to be kept in a dry, warm environment that is free of drafts.  Care must be taken to keep the bitch from stepping or lying upon the puppies and to ensure that each puppy is adequately cared and fed by the bitch, particularly during the critical first three weeks.  Newborn puppies are also extremely susceptible to other factors, such as disease and stresses such as physical trauma, infections from less than sanitary conditions, heavy parasite load, and congenital diseases. 

 

Because it has been your decision to produce these puppies, it is your responsibility to make sure that they remain as healthy as possible.  This means that your life for at least the first week will not be your own and, hopefully, your family will understand the stress and time constraints upon you.  For those of you who are parents, think back to those first few months when it seemed as if you would never get any sleep again.    Hopefully, you’ll be able to count upon the support of a partner or hire someone to help you care for the puppies during this time.   After the puppies are three weeks old, you will need to start teaching them to eat a type of gruel.  This results in extra time spent in preparing the food, cleaning bowls, assisting the puppies, and then in cleaning the puppies after so that skin infections do not occur from left-over gruel.  This is, of course, on top of the average of a minimum of two hours a day spent in cleaning the puppy pen, exercising and feeding the mother, handling the puppies so that they become used to people, taking the puppies to the veterinarian for a health check, worming and vaccinations, cleaning the house, etc.  Over an eight week period of time, this results in a very minimum of 112 hours.

 

During this period of time, you will also spend time on the telephone with those people who have reserved puppies and people who want information about puppies that you may have available.  This can be from fifteen minutes a day to several hours, dependent upon the people.  You will also need to budget money to return phone calls that you may miss.

 

Once the puppies are weaned, from three to six weeks, time should be spent playing with them, cutting their toenails, carefully examining them to help accustom them to having ears, eyes, mouth looked at.    Trusted people and children may come to visit the puppies, but only if you know that their dogs, if any, have been completely vaccinated and they are not carriers of any viruses.  Necessary to socialize the puppies, this is also an added cost to your time and expenses, since most of us will serve food and beverage of some sort to our friends. 

 

 

 

Now the really hard people work begins of spending time with the people who call and making sure that they are suitable owners with good homes for your puppies.  You have a great deal of emotional, financial, time, and energy investment in these puppies and should want to ensure that they go to the best possible homes.  You carefully word your advertisements for the various dog papers and, perhaps, the dog magazines, if you can financially afford the investment.  As the phone calls come in, there are definitely questions that you will want to ask the prospective buyers and questions that you should look for them to be asking you.  Are you determined enough and able to turn away people from who you don’t get a good feeling?  Can you continue to look for good, responsible homes even when the puppies may be twelve weeks old, eating you out of house and literally home, as their little teeth tear into the woodwork, leave little stains on the carpet, and snag your best hose?    Your responsibility continues even when the little imps are not quite so cute any more because the strain of late nights and extra work has worn you to a frazzle. 

 

 

You should find out as much as possible about the people who want to purchase one of the puppies.  Consider it a job interview for the life of and responsibility for the puppy.  Some of the questions that you should ask are:

 

 

A good breeder, concerned with the welfare of their puppies, will make the buyer feel as if they are adopting one of the breeder’s children.    Any breeder who will sell puppies without asking questions and doing all possible to guarantee that the buyer knows about

If the answers to any of these questions are vague or not to your liking, you should either decline selling them a puppy or talk to them in person and then make your decision.  Remember that if they are not willing to work with you now, it is likely that they will not follow your guidelines in the future, contract or not.

 

Informed buyers are going to want to know about the background of their puppy.  Be prepared to not only discuss everything you know about the sire and dam, but also everything you know about the other dogs on the pedigree.  Since a good breeder has done her/his homework prior to breeding, answering those questions should prove no problem.