This helpful document was given to us by the Allambie Vetinary Clinic and Hospital.
It is extremely informative. Their address is Allambie Road, Allambie, NSW Tel 99050505
CANINE PREGNANCY, WHELPING, LACTATION
It is extremely informative. Their address is Allambie Road, Allambie, NSW Tel 99050505
CANINE PREGNANCY, WHELPING, LACTATION
AND RAISING PUPS
Pregnancy
Bitches are pregnant for 63 days from the time of ovulation. Depending on whether the bitch was mated before or after ovulation the length of pregnancy from the time of mating varies from 58 to 68 days. Please record dates when your bitch’s season starts and changes and when she mates. This will help determine when your bitch is due.
During the first 3 weeks of pregnancy you may start to notice subtle changes in your bitch including teat development, increased weight, and changes of behaviour. They can become protective and at times may be off their food.
At this time you should exercise and feed your pet as normal. Avoid over heating and care must be taken with some medications for example, live vaccines. The diet should be a well balanced diet. No supplements are needed and should not be added.
Regular worming is important in the pregnant bitch. For those on monthly Interceptor or Sentinel, no more need be done.
From 6 to 9 weeks of pregnancy your bitch should be fed a good quality puppy food. We recommend Hills Science Growth Diet. Gradually increase the amount of food over the last 3 weeks of pregnancy. By the time she is due to have pups she should be eating approximately one and a half times her normal diet. Once again regular gentle exercise is important and it is essential that your pet does not become obese at this time as it will make the whelping more difficult. It is important that no supplements be given at this stage especially Calcium.
The Whelping Box
This should be in a quiet, semi-dark place in a room that can be kept at 30 degrees Celsius. A heat lamp can be suspended 1.2 meters above the box. The box can be partly enclosed and should have a rail at the bottom of 3 sides to allow the pups to roll away from the mother if trapped.
Place several thickness of newspaper on the bottom. These can be removed in layers as they become soiled.
Whelping
24 hours before your bitch is due to whelp her rectal temperature will drop by about one degree to around 37 to 37.5 degree Celsius. Checking the rectal temperature twice daily from day 55 will therefore give you an accurate indicator of imminent whelping.
Stage I of labour will last 6 to 12 hours. There are no obvious contractions. Your bitch will seem anxious and may pace. She will often nest and seek seclusion. She may vomit. There is no need for any help at this stage.
Stage II of labour is the actual birth stage of labor and will see your bitch lying on her side and contracting her abdominal muscles to push out the pup. It is best not to disturb the mother at this stage as she is able to stop the contractions if she is not happy. It is therefore best to let her settle at home rather than have her at the vet clinic.
The first pup will on average take 3 to 6 hours to be delivered. You should call the vet after 4 to 5 hours of contractions if the first pup has not appeared.
A bulge of membranes which contain the pup may be seen in the vulva. This is O.K for up to 40 minutes.
When the pup is visible do not attempt to pull the pup for at least 20 minutes after it is first present. Be careful not to pull off limbs or damage the spine. If you are not confident in helping your bitch then phone the vet 20 minutes after the pup is visible if the bitch is not having any success in pushing it out.
40% of pups will be born breech (tail first). This does not cause problems.
The next puppies will be born on average every 30 to 60 minutes. Call the vet if your bitch is pushing and she does not have another pup for 2 hours. The mother may have a rest between pups so if she is settled and not pushing there is no need for help. She may rest for up to four hours between pups and this is OK as long as she is not pushing.
When the pup is delivered it may or may not be in its sack. The mother will usually chew off the sack, clean the pup, chew through the umbilical cord and eat the placenta. Do not help or interfere with the mother if she is doing this for herself.
If a pup is born in a sack it should be left for 1 minute ( by the clock) before you attempt to help. Then pick the pup up with towels, break the sack away from the head and wipe the fluid away from mouth and nose. Carefully support the pup while vigorously rubbing its chest. When it is breathing give it back to the mother to clean up.
If the mother does not sever the umbilical cord within 10 minutes it should be tied off with cotton 3 cm from the body and then cut off leaving about 5 cm of umbilical cord attached to the pup.
Leave the pups with the mother. She may not be able to nurse them till the whelping is complete but they need her warmth and contact.
The placentas are usually delivered after each pup but may take up to 2 hours. If possible try to count the placentas to make sure there is one for each pup. The mother can eat the placentas if she likes, otherwise remove them.
Care of the mother after birth
The mother should be checked by a vet within 24 to 36 hours after having the last pup.
Green to red/brown fluid will be passed by the bitch for up to four to five weeks. If it smells foul or if your pet seems unwell then seek advise from the vet. If there is spotting of blood continuing for longer than 6 weeks after the birth then she should be checked.
The bitch should be fed a high quality puppy diet ad lib after the birth. We recommend Hills Science Growth Diet. Water must be freely available. Add no supplements.
If your bitch is unwell ie poor appetite, foul smelling discharge, trembling, lethargic she should be examined as soon as possible.
Care of the pups after birth
The most important thing is to keep the pups warm. Their environment should be 30 degrees Celsius.
Pups must receive colostrum ( the milk from the mother during the first 24 hours after birth). You should make sure each pup is able to suckle during this period.
The mother will clean up all excretions from the pup so just change the paper regularly.
Pups should be wormed for round and hook worm from 2 weeks of age. For example canex puppy suspension.
Commence weaning pups at 2 to 3 weeks of age. Simply moisten a good quality puppy dry food with boiling water and allow to cool to body temperature. Place this in the whelping box for the mother and pups to eat together. Discard any remaining food after 30 minutes. Feed four times daily.
The pups will gradually reduce suckling. A source of water should be provided but be careful not to have a container that they could drown in. Alternately a milk substitute eg Divetalact powder can be made up with boiled water. This should be made up fresh say 4 times a day. It should be discarded after 30 minutes or so to avoid bacterial contamination.
Pups should be vaccinated at 6 weeks of age and ideally should go to their new homes at 8 weeks of age.
Tail Docking and Dew claws.
We do not recommend either of these procedures and no longer provide these services at Allambie Veterinary Clinic.
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